How to Weave Your First Wall Hanging on a DIY Cardboard Loom

How to Weave Your First Wall Hanging on a Diy Cardboard Loom

You know that feeling when you see something beautiful online, a cozy textured wall hanging, and think, "I could totally make that!" Then you click on the links and see the price tag, or realize it requires a fancy loom you definitely don't own?

Yeah, I've been there. My craft room is basically a shrine to ambitious projects that stalled out because of expensive tools or intimidating instructions. But what if I told you that gorgeous woven look is totally achievable with something you probably have in your recycling bin right now?

Today, we're going to dive into the wonderful world of weaving a wall hanging using just a piece of cardboard and some yarn. We'll talk about how to prep your makeshift loom, get your threads all set, and actually create something beautiful.

No expensive equipment needed, just your hands and a little patience. Let's make some fiber art, shall we? 👋

Why This Actually Matters

Honestly, when I first heard about cardboard loom weaving, I was skeptical. I pictured flimsy, uneven results that would look more like a child's art project than something I'd want to hang in my living room.

But the truth is, a cardboard loom is an incredible entry point into weaving. It strips away all the complexity and cost of traditional looms, letting you focus purely on the creative act of interlacing threads.

It's not just about saving money, though that's a huge bonus. It's about seeing possibility in everyday objects, like an old Amazon box. It's about discovering a new rhythm, a meditative process that’s surprisingly calming after a busy day.

My first cardboard weaving was definitely wonky, but it taught me so much about tension and texture. That small, imperfect piece still hangs in my studio as a reminder that every grand project starts with a simple, sometimes messy, first step.

Getting Started: Your Diy Cardboard Loom & Supplies

So, we're building a loom out of cardboard. Sounds wild, right? It's actually super effective and surprisingly sturdy for smaller projects.

The core concept is to create a frame that can hold your vertical "warp" threads under tension. The cardboard provides that rigid structure, and some simple notches do the rest.

What You'll Need for Your Cardboard Loom

You probably have most of this stuff lurking around your house already. Don't feel pressured to buy anything fancy; we're embracing the budget-friendly spirit here!

• Sturdy Cardboard - Think moving box, shipping box, or even a thick cereal box if you're making something really small. You want something that won't easily bend. A 10x12 inch piece is a great starting size for a small wall hanging.
• Scissors or Craft Knife - For cutting your cardboard and yarn. A craft knife with a cutting mat is ideal for clean, straight edges and notches. If you're using scissors, just make sure they're sharp.
• Ruler & Pencil - Essential for measuring and marking your loom, especially for those all-important notches. Accuracy here helps keep your weaving even.
• Yarn for Warp Threads - This is the foundation of your weaving, the threads that run vertically. You want something strong and not too stretchy. Cotton or linen yarn works great. I often use some inexpensive cotton twine I picked up at a hardware store for about $5.
• Yarn for Weft Threads - This is where the fun begins! These are the threads you'll weave horizontally. This is your chance to play with colors, textures, and thicknesses. Raid your stash, hit up a thrift store for old sweaters to unravel, or look for clearance skeins at a craft store.
• Tapestry Needle (or alternative) - A large, blunt needle with a big eye makes weaving much easier, especially for thicker yarns. If you don't have one, you can make a makeshift needle from a piece of rigid cardboard or even use a bobby pin or paper clip opened up.
• Fork or Comb - For "beating down" your weft threads, making them nice and compact. A regular kitchen fork works perfectly.
• Dowel or Stick (optional) - For hanging your finished piece. Check your backyard for a fallen branch, or a craft store for a cheap wooden dowel.

Seriously, don't overthink the supplies. My first woven piece used scraps of yarn leftover from knitting projects and a piece of cardboard from an old shoe box. It's all about experimenting with what you have.

Setting up Your Loom: the Warp Threads

This is arguably the most important step. A well-prepared loom and properly tensioned warp threads make all the difference in how easy and enjoyable your weaving process will be.

Take your time here. If your warp is uneven or too loose, your entire weaving will suffer.

Step 1: Preparing Your Cardboard Loom

Grab your sturdy cardboard. We're going to turn it into a functional loom.

First, decide on the size of your weaving. Cut your cardboard to be about 2-3 inches wider and 2-3 inches taller than your desired finished piece. This extra space gives you room to work and secure your threads.

Next, we need to make the notches. Along the top and bottom edges of your cardboard, measure and mark evenly spaced lines. I like to start about half an inch in from each side, then mark lines every quarter-inch or half-inch, depending on how dense you want your weaving to be.

Use your ruler and pencil for precise marks. Once marked, carefully cut small notches (about a quarter-inch deep) at each mark. These notches will hold your warp threads in place, so make them deep enough to be secure, but not so deep that they weaken the cardboard.

Step 2: Warping Your Loom (the Vertical Threads)

This is where we add the foundational threads. Choose your warp yarn – remember, something strong and not too stretchy.

Start by taping one end of your warp yarn to the back of your cardboard loom, near the first notch on the bottom edge. Leave a tail about 4-6 inches long; we'll use this later.

Now, bring the yarn up through the first notch on the bottom, over the front of the loom, and down into the corresponding first notch on the top. Pull it taut, but not so tight that it bows the cardboard.

Continue this process, winding the yarn around each notch, going up and down, making sure each thread is snug and has even tension. It's like wrapping a present, but for weaving!

Step 3: Securing the Warp

Once you've warped all the way across your loom, you should have a series of parallel threads running vertically, all with relatively even spacing and tension.

Take the end of your warp yarn and tape it securely to the back of the cardboard, just like you did at the beginning. Again, leave a 4-6 inch tail. These tails are important for finishing your piece later, so don't cut them too short!

Double-check your warp. Are all the threads evenly spaced? Is the tension consistent across the entire loom? If you have any super loose or super tight threads, it's worth unwinding and re-warping that section now rather than trying to fix it in the middle of your weaving.

My first attempt at warping was a mess; some threads were like guitar strings, others sagged. I learned quickly that a good warp is the secret sauce. Don't rush this part!

Weaving Basics: Getting Your Weft on

Okay, your loom is warped and ready. This is where the magic happens – where individual threads start to become fabric, creating texture and pattern.

This is the fun part, where you get to play with colors and see your design come to life. Don't be afraid to experiment!

Step 1: Starting Your Weft

Choose your first weft yarn. Cut a piece about an arm's length (around 3-4 feet). Trying to weave with too long a piece of yarn will lead to tangles and frustration, trust me.

Thread your tapestry needle with one end of the weft yarn. Leave a tail of about 4-6 inches hanging on the side where you start your weaving.

This tail is important. Just like with the warp, we'll use it to secure your weaving later. Starting too close to the edge will make your weaving unravel.

Step 2: Plain Weave (over-under)

The most basic and fundamental weaving technique is the plain weave. It's incredibly simple and creates a beautiful, strong fabric.

Starting from one side of your loom (it doesn't matter which, but be consistent), pass your threaded needle over the first warp thread, under the second, over the third, under the fourth, and so on, all the way across to the other side.

Pull the weft yarn through, leaving that starting tail hanging out. When you get to the other side, turn around and weave back in the opposite pattern: if you went over the last warp thread on your first pass, now you'll go under it. Always alternate: over, under, over, under.

This alternating pattern is key. If you go "over, under, over, under" on one row, your next row must start with "under, over, under, over." It creates that interlocking fabric structure.

Step 3: Packing It down

As you weave each row, you'll notice the weft threads want to stay loose and open. This is where your fork or comb comes in.

Once you've completed a row, gently push the weft yarn down towards the previous row, compacting it. You want to push it down evenly across the entire width of your weaving.

This "beating down" process is crucial for creating a dense, even fabric. If you don't pack your rows down, your weaving will be very loose and see-through, and might unravel more easily.

Be careful not to pull your weft threads too tightly as you weave, especially at the edges. This can cause your weaving to "draw in" and become narrower in the middle, creating an hourglass shape. Give your weft a slight "arch" before beating it down, which helps it relax into place without pulling the warp threads inward.

Step 4: Changing Colors and Adding Texture

Once you get the hang of plain weave, you can start experimenting! To change colors, simply weave to the end of your row with your first color, leaving a 4-6 inch tail.

Then, introduce your new color, leaving a similar tail, and continue weaving. You can either overlap the old and new yarn for a couple of warp threads on the back (carefully!), or just leave the tails and weave them in later.

For texture, try weaving with different types of yarn: chunky roving, thin embroidery floss, ribbons, or even strips of fabric. You can also vary your weaving pattern. Try "soumak" stitch for a braided look, or create loops for rya knots by wrapping yarn around your fingers before securing it. YouTube is a great resource for quick tutorials on these techniques once you have the basics down.

My favorite way to add texture is by using a super bulky, soft yarn for a few rows. It just adds so much dimension and makes the piece feel cozy.

Finishing Your Wall Hanging: the Big Reveal

This is the moment of truth! You've put in the work, and now it's time to release your creation from the loom. It's always a little nerve-wracking, but so rewarding.

Don't worry if it looks a little messy at first; a little tidying goes a long way.

Step 1: Removing Your Weaving from the Loom

Once you're happy with the length of your weaving (remember to leave enough warp threads exposed at the top and bottom to tie off), it's time to cut it free.

Carefully cut the warp threads at the back of your cardboard loom, in the middle of the empty space between the notches. This will give you two sets of warp loops on each side of your weaving.

Gently slide your weaving off the cardboard. It will probably feel a little loose and floppy, which is totally normal. Don't panic!

Step 2: Tying off the Warp Threads

Now you have all those warp loops and tails. We need to secure them so your weaving doesn't unravel.

Take two adjacent warp threads (or loops, if you cut them carefully) on one end of your weaving. Tie them together in a secure double knot, pulling gently but firmly. You're basically creating fringes or simply securing the edges.

Continue this across the entire width of your weaving, tying pairs of warp threads together. Do this on both the top and bottom edges of your piece. This creates a neat, stable edge and keeps all your weft threads in place.

You can also knot groups of three or four threads if you want thicker fringe, or even braid them if you're feeling ambitious. Just make sure those knots are secure.

Step 3: Adding a Hanging Dowel

Most wall hangings look great suspended from a dowel or a nice piece of driftwood. This gives it structure and makes it easy to hang.

Lay your dowel across the top edge of your weaving. Take your top warp fringes (or loops, if you kept them long). You can either tie them directly onto the dowel with simple knots, or you can loop them around the dowel and then tie them to themselves to create little hanging loops.

Make sure to distribute the fringes evenly across the dowel so your piece hangs straight. A little measuring here can prevent a crooked display later.

If you don't have a dowel, you can also just make a loop of strong yarn and tie it to the two outermost warp threads on each side, forming a hanging loop directly on the weaving.

Step 4: Trimming and Tidying

Now is the time to clean everything up. Trim all your warp fringes to your desired length. I like to lay a ruler across the bottom and trim everything super straight, but a more organic, uneven fringe can also look really cool.

Look for any weft tails you left at the edges or where you changed colors. Use your tapestry needle to carefully weave these tails back into the existing weaving on the back of your piece, burying them so they're hidden. This makes your finished piece look professional and prevents unraveling.

Give your weaving a gentle shake and admire your handiwork! You just made something beautiful from scratch.

Common Weaving Wobbles (and How to Fix Them)

Alright, let's talk about the stuff that inevitably goes wrong. Because it will, especially on your first few attempts. And that's totally okay.

Learning from mistakes is part of the fun, and it definitely makes you feel like a real maker when you figure out how to troubleshoot.

"Every 'oops' in crafting is just an invitation to innovate. Don't despair; adapt."

Here are some common issues I've run into and how to deal with them:

The "hourglass Effect" (edges Pulling In)

This is super common. You start with a nice wide weaving, and as you go, the middle gets narrower, looking like an hourglass. It's usually caused by pulling your weft threads too tightly at the edges.

Fix: When you weave a row, don't pull the weft yarn straight across. Instead, give it a slight arch or "frown" shape before you beat it down. This gives the yarn enough slack to settle without tugging on the warp threads at the sides. You can also gently push the outermost warp threads back out with your fingers as you pack down each row.

Loose or Uneven Weft Threads

Sometimes your weaving looks lumpy or gappy, with some rows packed tight and others loose. This means your "beating down" wasn't consistent.

Fix: Be deliberate with your fork or comb. Push down evenly across the entire width of your weaving, applying consistent pressure. Practice makes perfect here. If you notice a super loose row, you might be able to gently push it up towards the previous rows before continuing. If it's really bad, you might have to carefully unpick a few rows and redo them.

Warp Threads Popping out of Notches

This is frustrating! If your warp threads keep slipping out of your cardboard notches, it means they weren't cut deep enough, or the tension is too high.

Fix: You can try to deepen the notches with your scissors or craft knife, being careful not to cut through the cardboard entirely. Alternatively, use a small piece of tape over the top of the warp thread at the very edge of the loom (on the back or front) to hold it securely in its notch. If the tension is too high, you might need to re-warp with slightly less tension.

Weaving Getting Too Wide or Too Narrow

If your weaving is inexplicably growing wider or shrinking more than the hourglass effect, check your over-under pattern. Sometimes, it's easy to accidentally go "over, over" or "under, under" on a warp thread, which can mess up the edge.

Fix: Always double-check your pattern. For plain weave, every row must alternate. If the previous row went over a warp thread, this row goes under it. If you spot a mistake, gently unpick that section until you're back to where it went wrong and re-weave it correctly.

Running out of Weft Yarn Mid-row

It happens! You're almost done with a row and boom, you're out of yarn. Don't just tie a knot in the middle of your piece.

Fix: Weave the remaining short piece of yarn until it ends, leaving a small tail. Then, introduce your new yarn, leaving a similar tail, and continue weaving from where you left off. Later, you can carefully weave those tails into the back of your piece, making the join invisible.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Really Use Any Kind of Yarn for This?

For your weft threads, absolutely! That's the beauty of it. I've used everything from super bulky wool to thin embroidery floss and even strips of old t-shirts. The warp yarn needs to be strong and non-stretchy, but for the weft, go wild and experiment with textures and colors.

How Long does It Actually Take to Weave a Wall Hanging?

That depends a lot on the size and complexity. For a small 6x8 inch piece with basic plain weave, you could easily finish it in 2-3 hours, perhaps over an afternoon. If you're doing a larger piece or experimenting with intricate textures, it could take several sessions, maybe 6-10 hours in total. It's definitely not a 15-minute craft, but it's very meditative.

What if My Edges are Really Messy and Uneven?

That's super common for beginners, and honestly, a handmade look has its own charm! First, review the "Hourglass Effect" tip above. For existing messiness, you can sometimes gently nudge the weft threads at the edge with your needle to try and even them out. Don't be too hard on yourself; your next piece will have much neater edges. It's all about practice.

Do I Need to Buy a Special Tapestry Needle, or Can I Use a Regular Sewing Needle?

A regular sewing needle will be too small and sharp for most yarns and will be really difficult to use. A tapestry needle is blunt and has a large eye, making it ideal for weaving. If you don't have one, try making a makeshift needle out of a piece of sturdy cardboard or even a bobby pin bent into a slight hook shape. It'll work in a pinch!

Is This Worth It if I Eventually Want to Buy a "real" Loom?

One hundred percent, yes! A cardboard loom is a fantastic, zero-risk way to learn the fundamental principles of weaving: warp, weft, tension, and basic patterns. You'll gain a solid understanding that will make transitioning to a frame loom or even a small rigid-heddle loom much easier. It's like learning to ride a bike with training wheels before hitting the trails.

The Bottom Line

Learning to weave on a cardboard loom is one of those projects that looks more complicated than it is. The initial setup takes a little precision, but once you get into the rhythm of over-under, it's incredibly therapeutic.

Don't let the idea of not having "proper" equipment stop you from trying a new craft. The best tools are often the ones you already have. Grab some cardboard, dig out some old yarn, and give it a try.

Your first piece might not be gallery-worthy, but it will be entirely yours. And that, to me, is the best part of making anything. Happy weaving! ❤️