The Best Tools for Starting a Linocut Printmaking Hobby

The Best Tools for Starting a Linocut Printmaking Hobby

Hey there, fellow makers! 👋 Have you ever scrolled through Instagram, paused on a gorgeous, textured print, and thought, "Wow, I wish I could make something like that"? Or maybe you've bought an art kit for a new hobby, only for it to gather dust on a shelf because you felt too overwhelmed to actually start?

Yeah, I know that feeling. It's totally real. I've been there with at least three different pottery kits and a set of paints I still haven't opened. But today, we're going to talk about linocut printmaking.

I’m going to walk you through the essential tools you'll need to get started. We’re talking about carving tools, the right blocks, inks, and everything in between. My goal is to make it feel less intimidating and more like a fun, creative adventure.

Why This Actually Matters

Starting a new craft can feel like a big investment, both in time and money. You want to know if it's really worth diving into. Linocut printmaking, in my opinion, is absolutely one of those crafts that gives back tenfold.

Think about it: you can transform a simple sketch into a beautiful, repeatable piece of art. Last year, I made a series of linocut prints for holiday cards, and they were such a hit. People were genuinely surprised I'd made them myself, and it felt amazing.

It’s also incredibly meditative. There's something really satisfying about the rhythmic carving, the smell of the ink, and then that moment of pulling the first print. It’s a tangible result of your creativity, and honestly, that's priceless.

Getting Started with Linocut: the Essentials

So, what exactly is linocut printmaking? In a nutshell, you carve an image into a piece of linoleum or a soft rubber block, roll ink onto the raised parts, and then press that block onto paper to create a print. It's a relief printing method, which means what you carve away is what doesn't print.

Sounds pretty cool, right? Now, let's talk about the specific tools you'll want to have on hand. Don't worry, we're not talking about anything super fancy or expensive to begin with.

Carving Tools: Your Creative Scalpels

This is where the magic really happens, shaping your design into the block. Getting a decent set of carving tools is probably your most important first step.

There are two main types of handles you'll see. One is a mushroom-shaped handle where the blade twists in. The other is a longer handle with interchangeable V and U-shaped gouges that slot into the end. I personally find the interchangeable sets a bit more comfortable for beginners, but it's really a preference thing.

• V-Gouge: This blade makes a V-shaped cut and is fantastic for fine lines, details, and outlining your design. You'll use it to create crisp edges. I reach for my small V-gouge constantly for intricate parts.
• U-Gouge: These blades come in various sizes and make wider, U-shaped cuts. They're perfect for clearing out larger areas you don't want to print. Think of them for removing big chunks of linoleum around your main design.
• Knife Blade: Some sets include a small knife blade. This is super useful for cutting out the perimeter of your block or making sharp, straight lines if you need them. Just be extra careful, as these are very sharp.

My recommendation for starting out is a basic Speedball linocut kit. It usually comes with an interchangeable handle and a few different gouges for about $15-$25. It’s what I started with, and it’s a perfectly solid way to figure out if you even like carving before investing in pricier tools.

Lino Blocks: Your Canvas for Carving

The material you carve into is just as important as the tools you use. There are a few different types of blocks available, and each has its own feel when carving.

• Traditional Linoleum (Battleship Gray): This is the classic stuff. It's usually a bit stiffer and requires more pressure to carve. It can be a little unforgiving for beginners if you're not used to it. The upside is it holds really fine detail.
• Soft-Kut or Easy-Carve Blocks: These are my absolute go-to for beginners, and honestly, for most of my projects now too. They're made of a soft, rubber-like material that's much easier to carve through. You won't fight the block as much, which means less hand fatigue and a more enjoyable carving experience.
• Rubber Blocks (e.g., Speedball Speedy-Carve): Even softer than the Soft-Kut blocks, these are almost like carving into a firm eraser. They're super forgiving and great for kids or anyone who wants a really easy carving experience. They might not hold the absolute finest detail as well as traditional lino, but they’re still fantastic.

Start with a small pack of Soft-Kut blocks. They usually come in various sizes, so you can try out different designs. Don't go too big on your first project; a 4x6 inch block is a great starting point.

Inks: Bringing Your Design to Life

Once your block is carved, you need ink to make it print. This is where your design really pops.

• Water-Based Ink: This is what I recommend 100% for beginners. Water-based inks clean up with just soap and water (no harsh chemicals!). They dry relatively quickly, which is both a blessing and a slight curse if you're slow, but it's totally manageable. Speedball's water-soluble block printing ink is a classic choice and comes in tons of colors.
• Oil-Based Ink: These inks offer richer colors and often have a longer open time, meaning they stay wet on the block for longer. Cleanup requires mineral spirits or specific printmaking cleaners, which can be a bit more of a hassle. I’d save oil-based inks for when you're a bit more experienced and want to experiment with different effects.

Grab a tube of black water-based ink to start. Black is perfect for really seeing your carved lines and understanding contrast. Then, once you're comfortable, you can branch out into colors. I love mixing a little white into black to get a nice gray, too.

Brayer and Inking Plate: Spreading the Love

A brayer is simply a roller designed to evenly apply ink to your carved block. And an inking plate is where you'll roll out that ink.

• Rubber Brayer: A soft rubber brayer is essential. The rubber picks up the ink and transfers it smoothly to the raised surfaces of your linocut. Make sure it's clean before you start, and roll it back and forth on your inking plate to get an even layer of ink on the brayer itself.
• Inking Plate/Palette: You need a non-absorbent, smooth surface to roll your ink onto. A sheet of plexiglass, a glass cutting board, an old ceramic tile, or even a sturdy plastic placemat works perfectly. I use an old piece of acrylic I found at the hardware store for $5.

Don't skip the brayer! Trying to spread ink with a brush or sponge just doesn't work for linocut. A 4-inch soft rubber brayer is usually a good size for most beginner projects. It’s small enough to control but wide enough to cover a decent area.

Paper: the Final Destination

The type of paper you print on makes a huge difference in the final look of your print. You can't just use any old paper.

• Smooth, Absorbent Paper: You want paper that's relatively smooth, so it picks up all the details from your block. It also needs to be absorbent enough to really grab the ink.
• Drawing Paper: A good quality drawing paper (around 80-100lb) works well. Look for something that specifies it's good for printmaking or even general art use.
• Japanese Printmaking Paper (e.g., Kozo): These papers are often thin, strong, and incredibly absorbent. They produce beautiful, delicate prints. They can be a bit pricier but are wonderful to experiment with once you've got the basics down.

Avoid super textured papers (like cold-press watercolor paper) as the ink won't transfer evenly into the dips. Also, thin printer paper often buckles or shows the ink through too much. Grab a pad of smooth drawing paper to start, maybe 9x12 inches so you have room around your print.

The Extras: Small but Mighty

These aren't strictly "tools," but they'll make your life a lot easier.

• Pencil and Tracing Paper: Essential for sketching your design and transferring it to the block. I use a regular HB pencil.
• Bench Hook: This is a simple wooden device that holds your lino block steady while you carve. It keeps the block from slipping, which is a huge safety feature. If you don't have one, clamping your block to a workbench helps. Safety first, always!
• Palette Knife or Spatula: Useful for scooping ink out of the tube and spreading it onto your inking plate. An old credit card or a sturdy piece of cardboard can work in a pinch.
• Drying Rack/Space: Linocut prints need time to dry without smudging. A clothesline with clothespins, a drying rack, or just a clean, flat surface will do. Don't stack them until they're totally dry.

How to Actually do It: a Quick Process Walkthrough

Okay, so you've got your tools. Now what? Let's quickly outline the general steps you'll take to make your first print. Don't worry, this isn't a detailed tutorial, just a general idea of the flow.

Step 1: Design Your Image

Start by sketching your design on paper. Keep it simple for your first try. Think about what areas you want to be black (inked) and what areas you want to be white (carved away).

Remember that your final print will be a mirror image of what you carve. If you have text, you absolutely need to reverse it on the block. I've forgotten this more times than I care to admit, resulting in backwards words!

Step 2: Transfer Your Design to the Block

There are a few ways to get your design onto the lino. You can draw directly on the block with a pencil, but I prefer transferring. Sketch your design onto tracing paper, then flip the tracing paper over and rub the back of the lines with a soft pencil.

Place the tracing paper (pencil-rubbed side down) onto your lino block and rub the front with a spoon or your finger. The pencil graphite will transfer your design (already reversed!) onto the block. You can also use carbon paper.

Step 3: Carve Your Block

This is the fun part, but also where you need to be careful. Always carve away from your body and your non-carving hand. Use a bench hook or clamp your block down to keep it stable.

Start with your small V-gouge to outline the areas you want to keep. Then, use your U-gouges to clear out the larger sections that you want to be white on your print. Take small, controlled cuts. Don't try to dig too deep or carve too fast; that’s when slips happen.

Step 4: Prepare Your Ink

Squeeze a small amount of ink (about a pea-sized glob) onto your inking plate. Use your brayer to roll the ink out in all directions until you have a thin, even layer of ink on the brayer itself. You should hear a slight sticky sound – that's often called "tacky" and means your ink is ready.

If you have too much ink, it will squish into your carved lines and make a muddy print. Too little, and your print will be patchy. It takes a little practice to find that sweet spot.

Step 5: Ink Your Block

Roll your inked brayer over the surface of your carved linoleum block. Roll in different directions to ensure all the raised areas are evenly covered. You want a consistent, thin layer of ink.

Again, check for any ink getting down into your carved lines. If it is, you might have too much ink on your brayer, or you might need to carve those areas a bit deeper. It's a balance!

Step 6: Print Your Image

Carefully place your paper onto the inked block. Try to get it centered if that's what you're aiming for. Once the paper is down, don't move it!

Now, apply pressure. You can use the back of a spoon, a baren, or even a clean rolling pin. Rub firmly and evenly over the entire back of the paper, making sure to get into all the details. Spend about 30 seconds to a minute, really pressing down.

Step 7: Reveal Your Print and Clean up

Gently peel the paper off the block from one corner. This is the moment of truth! Don't be discouraged if your first print isn't perfect; mine never are. That’s totally normal.

Set your print aside to dry. For water-based inks, cleaning up is easy: wash your brayer, inking plate, and lino block with soap and water. Make sure to get all the ink out of the carved grooves on your block, or it'll dry there and make future prints harder.

Making It Stick / Common Mistakes

Like any craft, linocut has its quirks. It's easy to get frustrated if things don't go perfectly right away. I've definitely thrown my hands up a few times, wondering why my prints looked so bad.

One of the biggest mistakes I see (and definitely made myself!) is trying to rush the carving. You get excited, you dig in too hard, and suddenly your carving tool slips right through a detail you wanted to keep. Or worse, it slips and cuts your finger. Ouch!

Another common issue is with inking. Too much ink, and your fine lines become blobby. Too little ink, and your print looks faded and patchy. It really takes practice to get that perfect, even layer on your brayer and then on the block.

"Every 'mistake' in printmaking is just a happy accident waiting to be discovered, or a lesson pushing you to try again. Keep going!"

Finally, forgetting to reverse your image, especially if you have text or specific directions, is a rite of passage for every printmaker. My first carved initial "L" ended up backwards. It's frustrating in the moment, but you learn from it. Now I always triple-check my design before carving begins.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Linocut Hard to Learn for a Beginner?

Not at all! It's one of the more accessible forms of printmaking. The basic techniques are pretty straightforward, and you can get satisfying results with minimal tools. The biggest challenges are patience with carving and getting the ink consistency right, but those come with practice.

What's the Real Difference Between Linocut and Woodcut?

The main difference is the material. Linocut uses linoleum, which has no grain and carves smoothly in any direction. Woodcut uses wood, and you have to contend with the wood grain, which can be tricky but also adds a unique texture to the prints. Linocut is generally easier to start with because you don't fight the grain.

Can I Use Regular Printer Paper for Linocut Prints?

You can, but it's not ideal. Printer paper is usually too thin and not very absorbent, so the ink might bleed through or the paper might wrinkle. You won't get the crisp, clean transfer you want. Investing in some decent drawing paper makes a noticeable difference in your final print quality.

How do I Clean My Carving Tools Effectively?

The best way to clean your carving tools is to wipe them down with a damp cloth immediately after you're done carving. Don't let bits of linoleum dry onto them. If they get sticky with ink, a little soap and water will usually do the trick, especially with water-based inks. Keeping them clean helps them stay sharp longer.

What if I Don't have a Baren or a Fancy Press?

No problem! Most of my early prints were made with the back of a wooden spoon. A clean, firm rolling pin, a smooth rock, or even the palm of your hand can work. The key is applying firm, even pressure across the entire back of the paper. You don't need expensive equipment to get started.

How Much does It Typically Cost to Start a Linocut Hobby?

You can get a really solid beginner kit for about $30-$50. This usually includes a carving tool set, a few blocks, and a tube of black water-based ink. Add some drawing paper for another $10-$15. So, you're looking at around $40-$65 to get all the basic supplies. It’s a pretty budget-friendly craft to dive into.

The Bottom Line

Don't overthink it. The world of linocut printmaking is wonderfully accessible, and you absolutely don't need a huge budget or fancy tools to start creating something beautiful. Grab a basic carving set, a soft block, some ink, and some paper. That's really all it takes.

Embrace the learning curve, enjoy the process, and don't be afraid to make a few "mistakes" along the way. Your first print might not be gallery-worthy, but it will be yours. And that’s what really counts. Happy carving! ❤️